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Breakfast in Varanasi is a religion of its own. Here are the four kachori stalls we send every guest to.

Once a year, a million diyas turn the ghats into a sheet of light. Here's how to see it without missing it.

Varanasi asks you to arrive with less than you think you need. A short list of what actually helps.

There are 88 ghats along the Ganges in Varanasi. You do not need to see all of them. Here is where to begin.

Behind an unmarked door in the old city, three generations of a family still weave Banarasi silk by hand. We spent an afternoon at their loom.

The dawn row past the ghats is the most photographed hour in Varanasi. A few small courtesies make it better for everyone.